Animals fed heavily may reach these weights sooner, but just because your snake is fed heavily does not mean it’s physically mature enough to breed safely. Most people recommend between 1400-1600g in weight for your females, which most will begin to reach around two years (some exceptions do occur). In addition to age, there IS a general weight standard. A long and skinny ball python female is not an ideal breeder you want one that has begun to fill in and get… for lack of a better word: thick.
The reason for this is that a snake that is fed at a healthy rate will begin to fill out around this size, growing less in length and more in girth. So the first thing you need to ask is “How old does my female ball python need to be in order to consider breeding her?”Īnd the answer is 2.5 to 3 years minimum. There is no arbitrary weight that makes a ball python breeding ready regardless of age. The answer is: Weight is not as important as age. Probably the most frequent question people ask about ball python breeding is “What does my ball python have to weigh in order to breed her?” It is always cheaper to make your own than it is to purchase them. While some will take it for their first meal, most will not.Incubators can be purchased or made, depending on your needs. Do not breed going in expecting to be able to feed your babies frozen/thawed off the rip. On average, most baby balls won’t accept a fuzzy rat off the rip you want the mice to stimulate that first feeding response. Most ball pythons must be started on live, and mouse hoppers move more than fuzzy rats. More shy babies can sometimes be very insecure, so having access to hides in case of an issue is always good as well. It is recommended to over-estimate how many eggs your female might give you: if you think you’re likely to get 6-8 eggs, try for a 12 slot rack, just in case. 6 qt tubs are more than sufficient for a small ball python and will serve your hatchlings well. Most of the time, they need almost complete and total privacy in order to acclimate and eat. This is a normal part of the breeding process.īaby ball pythons are very shy. Do not be surprised if she does both, including flooding her tub. Additionally, you want to have a very large water dish, big enough for the female to partially soak in and wrap her body around. Larger tubs afford the female more room to cool off.
#HOMEMADE INCUBATOR FOR BALL PYTHON EGGS FULL#
Full drops are not required, but the female does need to have adequate ways of cooling herself. Toward this end, you will also sometimes see veteran breeders actually do a temperature drop. While it is possible to breed in tanks, we generally recommend a rack.īreeding females usually need a 41qt tub (or similar size one) the reason for this is that females often “cool seek” or try to deliberately cool down during the follicle building process. Females need higher humidity when they’re building and laying (or they risk eggbinding) they also need adequate privacy. Enclosures can and do work fine, but the problem with glass is the inconsistent heating and humidity. Generally speaking, breeding in tanks isn’t advisable. Light Diffuser Crate, or my new favorite, Easy Hatch reptile incubation trays.Hides (for the babies, RBI’s “small” hides work well).
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